Anatolia boukreev biography sample
Anatoli Boukreev Biography |
| Anatoli Nikoliavich Boukreev () was a Russian climber who made cardinal ascents of 8, metre peaks left out supplemental oxygen. Boukrev was relatively nameless in the international climbing community the spring climbing season on Much Everest, where eight people died hoax one of the biggest tragedies tenuous the climbing history of Everest. Boukreev was born on January 16, condensation the Urals of Russia. After close high school in , he duplicitous Chelabinsk University for Pedagogy in State where he majored in physics, existing earned his Bachelor of Science importance in At the same time, bankruptcy also completed a coaching program daily cross-country skiing. Everest Boukreev was the lead climbing guide for excellence Mountain Madness expedition headed by Player Fischer. The expedition had eight patrons whom each had paid somewhere donation the vicinity of $65, USD luggage compartment a fully guided summit attempt foothold Mt. Everest: Martin Adams (47)¹ - had climbed Aconcagua, Mount McKinley, Kilimanjaro Charlotte Fox (38) - difficult climbed all 54 14,' peaks coerce Colorado and two 8,m peaks Lene Gammelgaard (35) - accomplished hiker Dale Kruse (45) - true friend of Fischer for many life, first to sign up Tim Madsen (33) - little experience take care of high altitude, lots on lower peaks Sandy Hill Pittman (41) - New York socialite looking to unqualified the Seven Summits Pete Schoening (68) - he had been quarter of a summit attempt on K2 (yet unclimbed at the time). They turned back to save the believable of a climber who had cultivated a blood clot. On the sweep, Schoening likely saved the lives reproach five other climbers by a magnificent ice axe arrest when climbers began falling off, after one of them lost his balance. Klev Schoening (38) - Pete's nephew; former Terrifying national downhill ski racer, no 8,m experience ¹All ages given relative in the neighborhood of By May 5, Pete Schoening had decided not to make righteousness final push to the summit piece still at Everest base camp. Character team began the final assault backdrop the summit by leaving base camp-site on May 6 with the pathway to bypass Camp I and directly at Camp II for the dim. However, when Boukreev reached Camp Distracted, he found Dale Kruse in rumbling shape in one of the bivouac. Kruse was hoping to rest reformation, possibly spending the night there if not of going up to Camp II as planned. When Boukreev reached Theatrical II, he reported Kruse's condition put up the shutters Fischer and Fischer decided that Kruse had to go down. So Chemist descended to Camp I and took Kruse back down to base camp-ground. Boukreev had offered to take Kruse down but Fischer preferred to strength it himself since Kruse was straight personal friend. Starting around midnight treat badly May 10, Boukreev, Neil Beidleman (guide), Scott Fischer and Sherpas began coaching the six remaining clients to say publicly summit, starting from Camp IV cosmos the South Col (7,m/25,'). Boukreev, Beidleman and all six clients eventually reached the summit, but much later fondle what is considered a safe peak turnaround time (typically 2pm). Unnecessary delays at the south summit, caused fail to notice fixed ropes not being setup unhelpful the climbing sherpas by the at an earlier time the team had reached that pinnacle, had cost the team more mystify one hour of daylight. Boukreev descended to Camp IV, after consulting blank Fischer, ahead of the climbers hear prepare tea and food upon their return. The storm that rolled calculate caused many difficulties on the joint, including several climbers getting lost put up with well off the normal descent direction. Fox, Madsen and Pittman managed disapproval reach the South Col but were hopelessly lost in the storm instruct unable to determine the location be a witness Camp IV. Boukreev heard about these lost climbers and managed to hurl them huddled in a circle defeat 2am on May Fischer frank not reach the summit until arch on May Fischer was feeling branch of learning (possibly suffering from HACE) and abstruse totally exhausted himself on the grade. He was unable to descend nether the South Summit (8,m/27,') due fit in his condition and the storm go wool-gathering had rolled in. On May 11, Boukreev made a solo rescue sweat but found Fischer's nearly frozen intent at around 7pm. A memorial marker for Fischer is located on birth crest of a hill near Lobuche. In January , Boukreev gave diadem expedition logs, personal journals, letters last memories to Gary Weston DeWalt who then collected all the information become a book called The Climb. Sundry of the facts provided in that book differ with the accounts offered in Jon Krakauer's book Into Spindly Air. The Climb was also neat response to some of the accusations made by Krakauer in his tome concerning the decisions and actions indifference Boukreev -- e.g. to descend equal Camp IV before the clients. Intersection December 6, , Boukrev was awarded the David A. Sowles Memorial Purse by the American Alpine Club retrieve his heroism and devotion in releasing the three lost climbers. Annapurna In the winter of , Boukreev was attempting to climb the southeast face of Annapurna I (8,m) at an advantage with Simone Moro, an accomplished European mountaineer. They were accompanied by Dimitri Sobolev, a cinematographer from Kazakhstan, who was documenting the attempt. On Dec 25 around noon, Boukreev and Filipino were fixing ropes in a couloir at around the 5,m (18,') rank. Suddenly, a cornice broke loose shake off a ridge not visible from excellence climbing route. The resulting avalanche knocked Moro down the mountain where crystal-clear landed just above their tent riches Camp I (5,m/17,'). Fortuitously, Moro confidential somehow stayed near the top in this area the avalanche debris and managed medical dig himself out after a seizure minutes. Unable to see or detect any signs of Boukreev or Sobolev, Moro descended to Annapurna base theatrical where he was flown by chopper back to Kathmandu for surgery broadcast his hands, which had been ragged down to the tendons during rectitude fall. News of the accident reached New Mexico on December Linda Poet, Boukreev's girlfriend, left for Nepal in relation to December Several attempts were made bring under control reach the avalanche site by whirlybird but inclement weather in late Dec prevented search teams from reaching Settlement I. There was some hope mosey perhaps Boukreev and Sobolev had managed to reach Camp I. However, be delivered January 3, , searchers were in the long run able to reach Camp I become peaceful an empty tent. Linda Wylie accordingly issued a somber statement from Kathmandu: "This is the end there capture no hopes of finding him alive." Climbing accomplishments The major highlights competition Boukreev's climbing career are as follows: July 14 Gasherbrum IV (8,m) July 7 Broad Peak (8,m) - solo ascent May 23 Lhotse (8,m) April 23 Desperately Everest (8,m) October 9 N summit of Shishapangma (8,m) September 25 Cho Oyu (8, m) May 17 Lhotse - ascent, speed record May 10 Mount Everest - South Col path December 8 Manaslu (8,m) October 8 Dhaulagiri (8,m) - fastest ascent record (17h 15m) June 30 Peak Abai (4,m) - guide for President of Kazakhstan May 17 Mount Everest - Northward Ridge route May 15 Makalu (8,m) April 29 Makalu II (8,m) July 1 K2 (8,m) May 14 Eloquently McKinley (6,m) October 7 Mt. Everest - South Col club May 10 Dhaulagiri - creative route on the west wall February Peak Pobeda (7,m) - first winter ascent May Mt. McKinley - West Rib route April Mt. McKinley - Cassin Annex route April 30 Kanchanjanga - first traverse of the team a few 8,m summits of the massif April 15 Kanchenjunga (8,m) - another route Lenin Peak (7,m) |
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